This page provides information and suggestions about alternative, non-Vire parts, for those who can't find or don't want to pay "top dollar" for originals. However, most of the data come from the Internet or via e-mail from complete strangers, so the Webmaster can not guarantee that the information provided is accurate. If you choose to use non-Vire parts, you must accept full responsibility for the consequences. The Webmaster can not be held responsible for loss or damage of any kind arising directly or indirectly from the use of parts not recommended by the manufacturer.
Needless to say, the manufacturers and service agents are not all rushing forth with information about alternative parts - this page depends mainly on Vire owners who are willing to share their knowledge with the rest of us. So, if you have a Tip to impart, please contact the Webmaster.
Visitors to this page may also find it worthwhile to visit the Hints & Tips page.
28 December 2012 - From MH - I ordered all my seals and the three O-rings on the shifter from one place, www.metric-seals.com . I spoke to salesman Mike and I asked him to group the seals into one set (click here for photo). This he did, so if you call and mention Vire 7 all the seals will come up in the computer. My motor has the 30-52-10 crankcase seals, but he has the 30-52-7 also. I chose to put one viton seal with stainless spring on the water pump side so there are two different seals in this set.
24 October 2003 - From Chris, England - I have replaced the ball bearings on the main shaft of the gearbox your part number 18 (???). These are Int. No 6204 and are 20 - 46 - 14 Deep Groove Ball Bearings.
Further to this information on my rebuild of the gearbox I have found that the seals are available with Stainless Steel springs. I have used two of these for the water-pump gearbox seal as they should last longer than the normal type. The price differential is only about 25%.
16 October 2003 - From Chris, England - I have just bought a set of bearings for the gearbox of my Vire 7 and I thought you may like the International bearing numbers
Output Shaft:- (Fig.18 Part No.13) - Taper Rollers - Int. No. 30204 (2
Input Shaft:- (Fig. 18 Part No. 29) - Self Align/Double Ballrace - Int. No. 2203 (1 needed)
Reverse Idler:- (Fig. 17 Part No. 6) - Ballrace - Int. No. 6001 (2 needed)
The seal numbers are:-
Input shaft / water pump:- (Fig. 18 Part No. 30) - A 15-30-7 (2 needed)
Output shaft:- (Fig. 18, Part No. 12) - A 25-40-7 (1 needed)
9 February 2003 - From the Webmaster - The crankcase seals (Spare Parts Lists, Fig. 11, Part #6 (x2)) measure: inner diameter 30mm; outer diameter 52mm; thickness 7mm.
6 February 2003 - From Croix, USA - Oil seals can be found at International Seal and Packing Company. The seal at the propellor shaft (Spare Parts Lists, Fig. 18, Part #12) is 25mm x 40mm x 7mm.
22 April 2002 - From Veli-Antii, Finland - The dimensions of the water pump seals (Spare Parts Lists, Fig. 18, Part #30 (x2)) are: inner diameter 15mm; outer diameter 30mm; thickness 7mm.
7 June 2001 - From Pete, England - All bearings and seals are standard sizes and have markings indicating this e.g. 306 on a bearing. If you take the old bearings to any bearing stockist - look in the "Yellow Pages" - they will be able to supply a similar seal or bearing. You will have no problems if you stick to reputable makes of bearing such as RHP, SKF and FAG manufactured respectively in England, Sweden and Germany. Avoid any Far Eastern bearings unless made in Japan and carrying a makers name.
25 September 2000 - From BD, USA - If you have the originals, numbers appear on the edges of all bearings and seals and can be cross-matched by any automotive store:-
Webmaster's Note: Unfortunately, BD lost the note that said which bearing and seal was which , but JH was able to supply some of the missing information (see below)
24 May 2004 - From JH - The Driving Shaft Seal (Water Pump) is National Oil Seal 221540 and the Screw Shaft Seal (Drive Shaft) is National Oil Seal 222540
1997 - From firstname.lastname@example.org - The Main Bearings are a #306 - the same as used in VW Beetle rear wheel bearings. Webmaster's Note: Visit Tom's website to read about The Saga of the Sloop, Slow Ride.
29 March 2004 - From David Hughes - The original (?) carburettor on my engine is a Tillotson 229F. This information matches the most recent post on carburettors in the Alternative Parts section. However, the fuel line that came with the engine needed replacement. Try finding a fitting for that thing! Well, I've discovered that you can replace the inlet on the carburettor (Inlet Screen Body) with one that will just take a hose. The cost difference is significant; $28 for the Vire fuel line, $2 for the new fuel inlet piece for the carburettor.
11 July 2003 - From CMcC, Ireland - I ordered a new carburettor from Masnedo - Tillotson do not do the original one listed (HL 286A). The carb arrived today (Friday) from Denmark (ordered on Tuesday). It is a Tillotson, reference HL 229F. It looks very similar to the original. This one is listed in the current Tillotson catalogue.
25 June 2003 - From JB, USA - There are several Tillotson carbs that will work with the Vire engine. The stock carb has a 3/4 inch venturi and a 1 inch bore with external pulse fuel pump. The external pulse input is less common than the internal version but it is simple to convert to external pulse input or use an external pump instead, such as the Walbro WIP-13-1, available from www.jackssmallengines.com. I have used it on other engines and it works well.
To convert an internal pulse to an external input requires drilling a small hole in the diaphram plate and adding a tubing connector of some kind. I am currently using a HL282 carb on my Vire 7 and I modified it for external pulse by using the diaphgram plate from a HL239B, which had an external input. Both of these came from www.ebay.com. They have been available most of the time for the past several months and both together cost less than 50 dollars. The HL282 has a larger venturi than the stock carb but this just provides a little more power in the midrange and high end.
www.eccarburetors.com has a wide selection of Tillotson carbs (80 to 110 US dollars) and several are the correct size for the Vire 7 (or BVR). You can contact them and they will do modifications for carbs if they don't quite meet your needs (internal pulse to external, for example). Any of the 3/4 inch venturi 1 inch bore models for gas should work with the Vire.
Here are some web sites:
28 May 2002 - From JD, USA - I recently purchased some carburetor parts from Hansen Marine, the local Vire distributor here in the States. The gasket set cost me about $70 US. After a little research I found a much cheaper alternative. Going direct to a Tillotson distributor and buying parts from them. Tillotson has a very good website www.tillotson-carburetors.com/till3.htm (Webmaster's Note, 12 January 2003: This American link seems to have gone dead. Try www.tillitson.ie instead). In their site, they list distributors all over the world as well as suggested retail price lists. In looking at this list I found a new carburetor was about $90 US. The gasket kit was about $25. The only issue is getting the correct carburetor number.
I believe most Vire 7s are equipped with a Tillotson HL series carburetor. You can get the exact part number from the outside edge of the flange where the carburetor bolts to the head. Once you have that number you can buy any replacement parts needed, and much cheaper than the marine store and / or mechanic will charge. After all, they most likely buy them from the same place.
See Magneto and Ignition, below.
3rd March 2004 - From Mike Hanyi - The gasket (Part #15 in Fig. 16 of the Spare Parts Lists) from the aluminum resonator (exhaust gas collector) to the exhaust pipe can be replaced with a standard VW Beetle exhaust gasket.
Webmaster's Note: We're talking about Parts #23 and #24 in Fig. 11 of the Spare Parts Lists. Many owners don't realise that these plugs double as sacrificial anodes, which means that they corrode through with annoying frequency. If you are fed up replacing them, or if you can't find suitable replacements, don't worry.
3rd March 2004 - From Mike Hanyi, Fiinland - We rebuilt a Vire 7 in 1989. All the freeze plugs were replaced then, but one season after getting in the water the freeze plug rusted through. It was replaced, but then the next year another let go.
The problem is/was that the Vire engine does not have a zinc pencil. My father came up with this solution: -
In the left rear of the cylinder head, the standard freeze plug was removed and a rubber cork for a test-tube was installed. A standard 1/4" (6mm) zinc was put through it and, as the zinc has threads on it, Dad made a wire with a ring terminal that was bolted on with a 1/4" nut. The other end of the wire was GROUNDED to the engine - the zinc is useless unless grounded.
My father replaced the zinc every spring from 1990-2002 when the boat was sold, and he never needed to replace another freeze plug in all that time.
3rd March 2004 - From Mike Hanyi - Apart from the exhaust gasket (see above), all gaskets can be made by purchasing gasket paper, and with some Form-a-Gasket (or equivalent gasket cement) LIGHTLY gluing a piece to the surface of the part. Then, with the ball end of a ball-peen hammer, lightly tap the edges of the part through the gasket paper, thus cutting a perfect gasket (this trick I learned from being a automotive mechanic for 10 years).
19th July 2003 - From the Webmaster - The cylinder head gasket (Part #25 in Fig. 11 of the Spare Parts Lists), the gasket between the crankcase and the gearbox (Part #28 in Fig. 11 of the Spare Parts Lists), and the water pump gasket (Part #4 in Fig. 16 of the Spare Parts Lists) are all paper gaskets, 0.20mm thick.
17 May 2004 - From Martin, Canada - The water pump impeller can be retrofitted with a Mercury Quicksilver part number 47-89981 impeller, for a fraction of the cost of the original. The only catch is that you have to enlarge the drive portion of the impeller to 12mm to suit the original shaft.
11 June 2002 - From Dave Pickop at Fairways Marine, UK
- If your readers are interested I have managed to find a less expensive
altenative impellor that we will be supplying to our customers.
Webmaster's Note: Fairways Marine are no longer in business.
21 May 2001 - From TVG, New Jersey - The impellor is the same as that on some Mercury outboard engines. At $43 US for the Vire, versus $7 US for the Mercury that is worth investigating.
15 July 2005 - From 'TomD, Blackflute - The replacement coil appears to be an aftermarket part. The box is labeled 'FirePower Sport Parts, Inc.' and the label says:
ARMATURE, BOSCH / ROTAX / JLO
HIRTH / KOHLER / SACHS
SKI DOO #420-9646-80
The listing of other applications (Bosch/Rotax/etc.) might be useful to people looking for a possible supplier in the future.
During our search for this coil, the number '81' kept appearing (L81, 081, ####-81, etc.) and seems to have some universal meaning. Using this reasoning, I think that this: http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/01-081-1.html is likely the same part. Unfortunately there is no illustration but if someone had the old one in hand, perhaps they could phone mfgsupply and do a long distance comparison? .
2 July 2005 - From 'Fons Huinder - The contact breaker points are the same as those in the Puch Maxi moped - both use Bosch 1-217-013-021. So, if you need points, maybe you should start at your local scooter store.
30 March 2005 - From Paul Rainbird - The coil arrived today and the plug gave a lovely blue spark. I'm really pleased with the service from Bilcity ( http://www.bilcity.se/t-spolar.htm ). I sent them cash but they also accept credit cards. The coil cost 43 Euro (about £32) (including postage), a bit different from the alternative £160 from a UK dealer.
7 March 2005 - From the Webmaster - For our European readers, there's a snowmobile company in Sweden that can supply a replacement coil. You'll find their website at http://www.bilcity.se/t-spolar.htm The replacement coil is Bilcity Part Number 81-243 and it costs 198 SEK, which at the time of writing is about 21 Euro (this excludes postage, packaging and taxes - see entry above). Don't worry if you don't understand Swedish; they speak excellent English.
11 October 2004 - From David Herring, Minnesota, USA - I used the information on the Vire 7 page to ask for replacement parts for a Ski Doo snowmobile using the numbers found under 'replacement parts', they worked perfectly in both my BVR and my Vire 7. Here are particulars ...
A distributor: -
Fowler Electric Co., Inc.
9054 Grand Ave. S
Bloomington, MN (USA) 55420
Phone: (612) 884-5401
Fax: (612) 884-3628
Part numbers (These are 'Fowler' part numbers): -
Spark Plug Wire: G8-110
4 June 2003 - From JB, Texas, USA - The following web site sells the points and condenser for the Vire 7 (also fits Vire BVR):- http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/01-017.html. At $5.99 and $2.99 there probably won't be a better deal. This part worked in both my BVR and the Vire 7. The mounting post was a little longer than the original set in my engine but did not cause a problem. If it is too long just grind or cut it off. I know of one engine that had a mounting post mounted on the plate so if that is the original style then you would have to use 01 015 or 01 012 (mfgsupply part number) set or remove the post. The small bolt that holds the wire from the condensor is a tiny bit short, but is just long enough.
18 January 2003 - From JF, Canada - I have replaced the points, condenser and coil on my Vire 7 and have had no difficulty at all getting parts. They use a standard Bosch ignition system used on Ski-Do Snowmobiles, just go to any Ski-Do dealer and they can match the parts for you and they will likely have them in stock. 3 September 2003 - Update from JF - Part numbers are:- Condenser 410 7010 00; Points 410 7007 00. These are Ski Doo part numbers and most Ski Doo dealers world wide should stock these parts, "Obviously you would have to have SNOW in your area"
25 May 2002 - Webmaster's Note: Contrary to what EF was told (see below), alternative contact breaker points ARE available. Doduco make replacement points, Doduco Part Number 0 340 150 186.
September 2001 - Webmaster's Note: It's possible to supplant the magneto ignition system with a standard ignition system.
29 August 2001 - From EF, Scotland - The Bosch Points Part Number is 1 217 013 021. My local motor factor informed me that no other company makes a corresponding part. I tried the Type IV Volkswagen points as recommended on your alternative parts page but they bore no resemblance to the Bosch originals. I don't know why this was, mine is quite a new engine so I don't know if that has any bearing. Hope this is of some help.
7 June 2001 - From Pete, England - The points are made by Bosch so can be ordered through any Bosch stockist by quoting the Bosch part no. which is stamped on the point plate.
1997 - From email@example.com - The magneto points are the same as those used in the Type IV Volkswagen engines. Webmaster's Note: Visit Tom's website to read about The Saga of the Sloop, Slow Ride.
2 August 2001 - From - Mikko, Finland I'm not sure, but some old people says, that regular-size piston from Wartburg can be used in Vire 7 hp engine.
Webmaster's Comment: For those who, like me, didn't know, a Wartburg is a 2-stroke car from Germany, which was quite common in Finland in the 1960s and 1970s.
19 March 2002 - From Mike, USA - The Regulator is Delco part number 1118988. The Stens replacement part number is 435-040.
A list of alternative spark plugs can be found on the Technical Data page. If that list is not extensive enough, or if you want to compare plugs, visit either http://people.freenet.de/carstenbremmer/Zuendkerzenvergleichstabelle.htm or http://www.mz-b.de/miraculis/aw/sonstiges/zundkerz.html. Both are German sites, but don't let that deter you; all you need to know is that "Wärmewert" means "Thermal Value".
7 May 2004 - From JH, USA - I've found a source here in the US for the Delco-Remy Starter/Generator, Part Number 1101864. They also have repair kits which include bearings and brushes. Their address and phone number is:
Jebco Alternator & Electric Service
609 Main Street
Riverton, NJ 08077
Telephone (from the USA):- (856) 829-7589
29 March 2004 - From David Hughes , USA - Some engines are fitted with separate voltage regulator and starter relay. The Bosch starter relay that came with my engine was bad. After trying to find an exact replacement with no success, one mechanic suggested just using any similar sized and configured starter relay. I ended up using a starter relay from a Ford Taurus. Apparently, you can actually use just about any relay.
19 March 2002 - From Mike, USA - The Starter / Generator is Delco part number 1101864.