In addition to the above mentioned servicing, change the oil in the reversing gearbox
The reversing gearbox is filled with oil to the point where the tip of the dipstick just enters the oil when the dipstick is screwed down and the engine is in its normal position in the boat. The mark on the dipstick shows the absolute upper limit for the oil level. The amount of oil is 0.85 litres*.
*Webmaster's Note: The original Operator's Manual suggests 0.7 litres under this heading, but then suggests 1.5 Imperial pints (1.75 US pints - equivalent to 0.85 litres) elsewhere in the Manual. Some later versions of the Manual advise the necessity of compensating for the tilt of the engine when filling the gearbox. Personal experience suggests that too much is better than too little (See "Stuck Solid" for a cautionary tale - and the Webmaster has had a similar experience, in reverse.
When setting the spark plug gap, adjust the earth connection electrode, not the middle electrode. The gap should be set to 0.50 mm.
About 99% of running and starting difficulties in 2-stroke engines originate in the spark plug. If your engine has been running well and for some unexplained reason starts developing starting or running faults, always check the plug first. Better still, fit a known serviceable spark plug and have the other cleaned and re-gapped.
Always keep with you at least one serviceable plug wrapped in a plastic bag. Do not leave it in the boat. Take it from your dry, warm house to the boat each trip.
If you know that there is fuel and compression - that the engine is not 'flooded' or over/under choked - and yet it still will nor start after four or five attempts - save yourself a lot of wasted effort by checking the plug. In nine out of ten cases cleaning the plug will effect a cure and the other one out of ten cases will almost certainly be corrected by a change of plug. Laying the plug on the cylinder head with the high-tension (HT) lead connected and engine rotated will tell you if the plug is sparking, but you should look for a good 'fat' blue spark. A plug that gives a thin or white spark may not spark at all when under compression in the cylinder.
The best rule with spark plugs is 'When in doubt, have it out !'
If there is any reason to suspect that there is dampness in the magneto, remove the rope starting pulley and spray a dampness remover (e.g. CRC 5-56 or WD-40) through the flywheel holes into the magneto.
If the engine will not start after this procedure, remove the flywheel and armature and dry it properly.
The above-mentioned dampness removers can also be used on other electrical devices in the engine.
In order to clean the carburettor strainer, remove the screw and strainer cover from the bottom of the carburettor, taking care not to damage the gasket.
Wash the strainer with petrol, and dry it. When putting the strainer back, check the gasket and fit the cover with care to avoid leaks.
When the engine is laid up for a long period, the lubrication oil can separate from the fuel and clog the carburettor. In such a case, remove the screw of the idling speed nozzle (idle mixture screw) and the screw of the main nozzle (high speed mixture screw), being careful not to lose any springs, washers or sealing rings. Put a can under the carburettor and let the fuel flow for some time through the screw holes. If the fuel tank lies below the carburettor, a flow can be created by removing the spark plug and rotating the engine by hand. After this, replace the nozzle screws and adjust the carburettor. If you have to strip the carburettor, ensure cleanliness and handle membranes and their sealing surfaces with care. An air leak on a sealing surface, valve or connection can cause a malfunction in the carburettor. In order to clean internal channels, use petrol and compressed air. Do not, under any circumstances, use steel tools, needles or similar articles to clear internal blockages.
The air filter is of the dry type. Wash the filter at the end of the season and/or when required.